Job Costs Plastering & Painting

How Much Rendering Costs in 2020


If you’re interested in rendering your house, there are quite a few things you’ll need to consider before you get started! Here you’ll learn about the cost of labour and materials for the job, how long it will take, what you can expect, and more!

How much does rendering cost?

House removation concept

The rendering of a house will cost between £2,000 to £8,000, depending upon the size of your home, the materials you decide to use, and the methods you choose to employ.

If you have a smaller home, you can expect to pay much less than if you have a large detached house. You’ll also have to consider the type of rendering you’d like to use for the project, as well as the materials. These two factors can drastically influence the price.

Labour costs will also influence the price, so think about whether you want to try to do the project yourself or hire an experienced tradesman. Remember that a large national company or a local one will usually be able to do the job more professionally, especially if you’ve never tried rendering a house on your own.

You’ll likely want to save money wherever you can, but keep in mind that rendering is a big job. If you don’t have a lot of experience, it will most likely be worth it to pay professionals to complete the project. It will be a lot less stressful if you pay someone else to do the work, too!

Here are some examples of what you can expect to pay and how long it will take to render different sized walls:

  • 5m2 garden wall: £200 to £550 for 1-2 days
  • Two bedroom bungalow: £2,500 to £3,500 for 4-6 days
  • Three bedroom semi-detached house: £4,200 to £5,500 for 6-9 days
  • Four bedroom detached house: £6,700 to £8,300 for 7-14 days

A basic render on house external walls begins with a base coat called a scratch coat, which is then followed by a fine topcoat painted with masonry paint. For basic costs, you can expect to pay between £40-£60 per metre squared. So, for the 5m2 garden wall above, you should expect to pay around £250.

For a three bedroom 80m2 semi-detached home, you can expect to pay around £5,000. You can expect to pay even more for a four bedroom detached house. You should always budget for more than you expect, as unforeseen costs can arise, like waste removal and scaffolding, for example.

Keep reading for everything else you need to know about rendering the house’s external walls!

Rendering prices

Basic lime render cost

Price: £20 per m2

If you’re looking for a flexible, damp proof and breathable option for your home, this type of render is your best bet. A basic lime render is a good option for older homes as it fits in well with the style of most period houses.

Cement render cost

Price: £10 per m2

Cement render is the most popular choice for modern homes in the UK. It’s also much more inexpensive compared to its basic lime counterpart, which has also helped make it popular. But, one thing you’ll need to keep in mind is the cost of repainting to keep this type of render looking fresh. You also may need to factor in multiple coats per wall.

Costs for finishing

Roughcast, decorative aggregates, and pebbledash cost

Price: starting at £30 per m2

You’ll need to carefully consider which type of finishings you’d like for your render as well! When coarse, small pebbles or gravel are applied to the base coat, it’s called a pebbledash or roughcast render. This finish will protect your wall against the elements, as well as give it an interesting texture.

You also have the option of adding some decorative aggregates instead of pebbles. This will give an even more interesting and unique look to the external walls of your home. You’ll also enjoy even more added protection against rain, sleet, and snow.

Exterior masonry paint costs

Painting new house

Price: £10-£25 per m2

You’ll want to add on external paint to the cost of rendering a wall. There is a slew of different colours available to choose from, but that’s not the most important factor! You’ll need to also consider how many coats will be required, the paint’s ability to protect against the elements and the texture.

Remember that the price of paint will greatly influence the final cost of the job. For example, a small 80m2 two bedroom semi-detached house will cost between £800 to £2,000 for the paint alone.

Pre-coloured and finished rendering prices

Polymer render

Price: £30 per m2

Polymers are a special type of plastic that’s added to a render base to prevent future cracking on the wall. The addition of colour means that you can avoid paying for an extra coat of coloured paint. A true budget saver!

Acrylic render

Price: £30 per m2

Acrylic render is used as a topcoat over new renders or an existing render. Often a silicone-based element is included in the render to diminish the need for future cleaning, but it does increase the price. As you can see above, the cost of an acrylic render is £30 per m2.

Monocouche render

Price: £35 per m2

Monocouche is made from cement and requires a single coat. It’s mixed with water and then sprayed onto the home. Monocouche is very expensive, but you also need to consider the fact that it requires just one coat and will save you maintenance and labour costs.

Supply only prices

House wall renovation

Here’s what you can expect to pay for the materials alone when rendering a house wall:

  • Lime: 5m2 garden wall: £100, 100m2 bungalow: £2,000, 200m2 semi-detached house: £4,000, 300m2 detached house: £6,000
  • Cement: 5m2 garden wall: £50, £100, 100m2 bungalow: £1,000, 200m2 semi-detached: £2,000, 300m2 detached: £3,000
  • Pebbledash: 5m2 garden wall: £150, 100m2 bungalow: £3,000, 200m2 semi-detached: £6,000, 300m2 detached: £9,000
  • Monocouche: 5m2 garden wall: £175, 100m2 bungalow: £3,500, 200m2 semi-detached: £7,000, 300m2 detached: £10,500
  • Paint: 5m2 garden wall: £50, 100m2 bungalow: £1,000, 200m2 semi-detached: £2,000, 300m2 detached: £3,000

Removal costs

If you have an existing render, you’ll need to pay to have it removed so that your walls can be cleaned before a new render is installed. Most renderers will include this step in their price quotes, but it doesn’t hurt to ask to make sure. Be sure to also ask if waste removal is included in the price. You may need to hire scaffolding, as well.

Be prepared for what you may find under your existing render! When it’s removed to install the new one, there may be damage underneath that will need to be cleaned with a sandblaster. The cost to remove the old render depends upon the condition of your home and the type of render.

It will likely take between 1-3 days for removal, and be prepared to pay your tradesmen between £150-£400 per worker per day. You may be able to save on cost here if you think you’re handy enough to remove it yourself!

Cost of labour and the estimated time frames

Builder with construction tools

Rendering jobs can last up to 2 weeks for larger homes, so labour costs are something you’ll have to carefully include in your budget. You can expect to pay your rendering specialists between £130-£250 per day.

Even if you’re confident in your DIY abilities, Monocouche renders on a detached home will likely be too big of a job to do on your own. Expect the job to take anywhere between 4-10 days. This depends on the size of your home, the different types of render materials you use, and the condition.

You’ll be able to save on time and price if you enlist the services of a qualified renderer. A tradesman can get you a discount on the different types of materials you use, and will likely give you a good price on labour costs!

For example, you can hire a capable tradesman to render a 200 m2 semi-detached house with a basic cement render for around £3,000. To do the job yourself, you’ll likely pay £3,000 simply for the materials.

As far as time frame goes, consider the different types of render you’re interested in using. Acrylic renders can dry in just a few hours on a hot summer day, but some other renders can take multiple days to dry. In general, you’ll want to get this type of work done in the warmer months, as rain or snow can impede the drying process.

Brand of render

There are many different brands of render to consider. Here are a few to choose from:

Parex: Parex is a well-known construction company. In addition to rendering, they specialise in repairs, landscaping, and highway maintenance. They also produce construction chemicals. With Parex, you’ll have the choice between several different render types, such as silicone, Monocouche, and acrylic.

Price: £20-£60 per square metre, depending on location and type of render.

Weber: Weber produces a variety of construction products, including a line of render called Weberend. You’ll enjoy the wide assortment of choices, from modern to traditional styles. One of their best products is a one coat pebbledash render that can save you money and time.

Price: £25 to £65, depending on location and type of render.

K Rend: K Rend is the largest independent manufacturer of coloured silicone render in the UK. They offer two different products in a variety of colours: a silicone thin coat and a silicone scraper textured render. The different colour choices mean that you don’t have to worry about painting! K Rend’s products are also known in the industry as being more durable than sand and cement render, which will save you a lot on maintenance. This is perhaps the most expensive option, but you’ll be able to save on paint costs and maintenance fees in the future.

Price: £30-£70 depending on location.

When can I paint over my render?

Painting tools on wall background

If you’d like to paint over your render once the installation has been completed, you will have to wait for a few days. Here are some examples of wait time:

  • Lime: Below 7°C-16°C: 4 to 7 days. 17°C-25°C: 2 to 4 days.
  • Cement: Below 7°C-16°C: 5 to 8 days. 17°C-25°C: 2 to 5 days.
  • Pebbledash: Below 7°C-16°C: 5 to 9 days. 17°C-25°C: 3 to 6 days.
  • Monocouche: Below 7°C-16°C: 5 to 10 days. 17°C-25°C: 4 to 6 days.

Keep in mind that lime, cement, pebbledash, and Monocouche renders will not dry in wet weather. Polymer and acrylic render may be able to dry when wet, but this will depend on the type of render you choose.

What does rendering a house mean?

House rendering is a covering that lays over an external wall of a home and serves as a protection against the elements, like rain and cold. It’s then finished with a top coat of paint to prevent cracking and dampness from seeping in through the wall.

By simply adding a layer of lime, sand, and cement or a resin-based material on the external walls of your home, you’ll be much better insulated in the colder months!

Render consists of materials like lime, sand, and cement or other protective materials that form a paste when mixed with water or chemicals. The paste is then applied to the external wall of your home. This creates a protective layer between your house and the outdoors.

Advantages and disadvantages of rendering

Interior of modern house

As with any home improvement project, there are several advantages and disadvantages to rendering:


  • A large variety of render to choose from for any budget.
  • The option to paint your render any colour you like.
  • You can mask any imperfections on the external wall of your home.
  • It creates added wall insulation.
  • It can possibly increase your wall insulation rating.
  • Protect against damage from graffiti.
  • Increase the value of your property.


  • Render requires maintenance over time.
  • The initial cost can be high without an immediate return on investment.
  • You may need planning permission, depending upon where you live.
  • If your home has any external features the price could be substantially higher.

What does rendering a house require?

Preparation of external walls: you need to have stable and secure walls.
Preparation of external features: these features can include vents and drainpipes.

Options for wall insulation: you can choose to install an extra layer of insulation under the render.

  • Render mesh: this serves as a foundation for the render.
  • Layers of render: this depends on which type of renders you choose.
  • Finish: if you don’t use a pre-coloured render you may want to add a final layer of paint or a smooth or textured finish.
  • Final steps: when the render and paint have dried, you’ll need to reattach drainpipes or other external features.

Are my walls appropriate for rendering?

Checking Ceramic Tiles Wall

You’ll need to determine this before you get started! The best way to determine if you can render your home is to check in with a local tradesman or larger company. They’ll be able to tell you if your home has any structural damage, an existing render, and the overall condition of your external walls.

Don’t get discouraged if your home is already rendered. You can always have the old render removed, your walls cleaned, and a new render installed!

Do it yourself house rendering

Keep in mind that rendering a home is a very large and difficult job. If you’re interested in doing things yourself to save on cost, remember that tradesmen or larger national companies will usually give you a discount on the price of labour and materials! The bottom line? You’re better off hiring a professional to get the job done!

Repair rendering prices

If you notice that your current render needs some repairs, you may be able to simply repair it rather than replacing the entire thing. You can feel free to DIY this type of project if you’re feeling up to it! But, if you choose to stick with a professional, you can expect to pay between £15-£30 per square metre, depending upon the size of the repair and the materials.

Maintenance, upkeep, and painting rendering

House wall painting

You’ll need to maintain your render as the years go by. Some rendering will require much more upkeep than others, but the good news is that you’ll only be required to repaint every 5-10 years.

One way to avoid a lot of excess painting and overall maintenance is to have your render cleaned once a year. This can be achieved with a high-powered power washer. What you need to remember is that if you consistently keep up with your render maintenance, it will last longer!

Rules and regulations for rendering

As with any home improvement project, you need to be aware of various building regulations. You probably won’t need to get planning permission to install a render, but if you live in a conservation area, you may need one.

The easiest way to make sure that you meet building regulations is to call your local council to make sure! This is another reason to hire a professional to get the job done – they are required to stay up to date on these types of things.

What are insulation grants?

Man thumbs up

If you are a low-income family, the government may be able to assist you through an insulation grant. These grants are a part of the Energy Company Obligation, which is a government scheme designed to help fixed budget households increase the level of insulation in their homes.

Skills, specialisations, and qualifications to keep your eye out for
Before you settle on a local tradesman or national company, make sure that you’re working with a reliable company. Look out for:

  • City and Guilds Awards: The higher the number of the award, the better.
  • Referrals: Personal referrals or online reviews.
  • Insurance: This is essential! Make sure whichever company you choose has liability insurance for any on the job accidents and job insurance to cover any mistakes or accidental damage to your property.


You’re well on your way to installing rendering on your homes! Whether you live in a bungalow, a semi-detached house, or even a four bedroom detached house, you’ll love all of the advantages of a cement or silicone-based render.

Job Costs Plastering & Painting

How Much to Repoint a Wall


If you’re interested in repointing your house, you’re probably wondering about the cost, what to keep in mind, the time frame and labour costs, and which materials to use, among other things. Keep reading for everything you need to know about house and brickwork repointing!

Cost of house repointing

Brickwall repair

Bricks are generally a solid material that you don’t need to replace very often. But, the mortar used to keep the bricks together needs regular upkeep and maintenance to prevent dampness and moisture from seeping in through the cracks.

The last thing you want is excess moisture in your home! The mortar found between bricks is called “pointing.” You can check to see if your pointing needs attention by merely looking at it. You can determine whether it’s even and flush to the brickwork, as well as considering when it was last updated.

You should then run your hands along it to make sure that it isn’t cracked or falling out. If you find that it does crumble or that it isn’t flush to the brickwork, you should consider repointing!

Make sure to check every wall of your house, as the quality of pointing can differ from place to place. Sometimes, mortar damage will be contained in one location due to water damage or the like. It could also be that the mortar between the bricks is old and in need of replacing.

You may be able to get the job done yourself (more on that later), but you’ll need the help of a professional, at least in the beginning. If you have a multi-story home, you’ll also likely need to use scaffolding to reach the higher places. A professional will have all of the necessary tools on hand to get the job done.

Quality bricklayers are usually booked up months in advance, so brickwork pointing isn’t something that you should expect to get done on short notice. If you see signs of decaying mortar, try to call a bricklayer as soon as you can.

Examples of house repointing job prices

To repoint an average semi-detached home with scaffolding needed with a buckle handle finish:

  • Cost of materials: £1450
  • Cost of labour: £2400
  • Duration: 6 days
  • To repoint a front door and window surrounds with a ladder:
  • Cost of materials: £40
  • Cost of labour: £250
  • Duration: 1 day

To repoint a gable end on a three-bedroom semi bucket with a tower handle finish using your own scaffolding:

  • Cost of materials: £100
  • Cost of labour: £1000
  • Duration: 5 days

Things to keep in mind with repointing

Old brick wall

Remember that old mortar will not be the same on all of the walls of your home. Usually, the corners that are hit hardest with the wind will begin to deteriorate faster than other areas. You’ll also notice that the areas directly beneath the gutters and windows will also start to decay faster due to the excess water drips.

Plus, the areas around the window and door surrounds may begin to crumble more quickly due to vibration after years of use. You should always plan to repoint an entire wall at a time as the new mortar colour will stick out compared to the older shade.

However, if there are old bricks on your home’s wall, like Victorian yellow stocks or red rubbers, be aware that these types of bricks are quite soft compared to their modern counterparts. You may end up chipping bits of the bricks away if you try to replace the old mortar, which won’t look very attractive.

In this case, you should only replace the mortar that’s crumbling away. Carefully remove the deteriorated mortar and leave the rest as it is. The newly pointed brickwork may stand out for a while, but it will eventually weather and will blend in nicely!

There are several different types of finishing to choose from when repointing brickwork: rubbed, weatherstruck, bucket handle, and raked joints.

Rubbed is when the mortar is applied and then left to dry. Then, before it’s completely dry, it’s rubbed down with newspaper to make it smooth and even to the brickwork. This finish may sound simple, but you could make a mess of it if you don’t enlist the help of a professional.

The Victorians first employed Weatherstruck finishing. The freshly applied mortar is angled downwards to slightly overhang the brick below. This technique will keep the water away from the joint.

The bucket handle finish was introduced in the 1930s and is the most popular finish today. The mortar is rubbed with a piece of tubing or a specific tool shaped like a bucket handle.

Raked joints finishing is when the mortar is raked out. This technique leaves a flat finish that is recessed slightly away from the brick face. It’s the fastest and easiest finishing, but it has lost its popularity in recent years because it allows excess water to sit in the recesses, which can cause severe damage to bricks and mortar over the years.

The cost of repointing a brick wall will depend upon the size of the wall, the style of the brick, the materials you choose to use, and the finishing method. When you start to think about your budget, you’ll need to keep in mind the time frame, cost of labour, and cost of materials you use.

You’ll quickly find that most tradesmen and larger companies work on a per square metre basis. These costs can reach up to £60- £100 per metred square. Most companies will provide scaffolding, but others will charge you extra for it. If you want to get a general idea of what you should expect to pay, try using an online calculator before you head to a local or larger company.

Here are some other facts and figures you’ll need to keep in mind:

  • Pointing is the mortar that holds the bricks in your walls together.
  • Repointing brickwork is a time-consuming job.
  • Your walls are made of up to 15% of mortar.
  • Solid mortar doesn’t need to be removed when repointing your
  • walls.
  • What to expect if you want to DIY

While pointing brickwork may seem like an easy job, don’t be fooled. If you decide to do it yourself, you’ll quickly find that it’s not as easy as it looks! If you do want to do it yourself, make sure to practice on a slightly hidden wall, like the back of a garage, for example.

You’ll save quite a bit of money if you do decide to do the work yourself. As you’ll only need to purchase the materials, you won’t have to worry about labour costs.

If you’re interested in repointing your entire house, you can expect to pay around £300 for the materials you will use alone. In this case, you’ll save about £1950 in labour costs! The materials that you’ll use include the mortar materials and the scaffolding. Scaffolding usually costs between £40 to £150 per day.

Here are some tools you’ll need for repointing:

  • Cement mixer (£100-£400)
  • Chisel (£5-£16)
  • Mortar board (£30-£70)
  • Pointing trowel (£5-£10)
  • Soft brush (£1-£6)
  • Wire brush (£1-£4)
  • Mortar mix (£1 per kg)

With a bit of practice, you may discover that you have a knack for repointing. But don’t get discouraged if you don’t. In this case, it’s a much better idea to enlist the help of a professional to get the job done right!

The time frame and labour costs

Worker holding brick

Labour costs will depend on the company you ultimately decide to work with. The average cost of a bricklayer is between £155 to £325. Bricklayers often work individually or as a pair. Repointing is typically a time-consuming job.

The exact time frame will depend upon how many bricks need repointing and how badly they need to be repointed in general. If you’re only interested in repointing the bricks around your front door and the neighbouring windows, the job will take just one day, and will cost up to £250 for labour.

A semi-detached house will usually take up to six days to complete and will set you back around £1950 in labour alone. If you solely want to repoint around a chimney, the work can take between 1-5 days and will cost between £155 to £1625.

What does repointing brickwork require?

Wall repointing

Repointing brickwork will require cleaning the wall and then removing the old and decaying mortar. New mortar is then applied to the gaps, the excess is removed, and finishing is applied. It isn’t a very complicated job, but it will take some time to complete.

Before you get started, you or a professional will need to inspect the wall to determine which bricks need repointing. Then, from top to bottom, remove the old mortar from the joints. Then, mix the new mortar. You’ll have to make sure that the new mortar isn’t too hard.

The wall needs to be sprayed with water before the fresh mortar can be pressed into the joints to make sure that there aren’t any dry spots. A dry wall will suck the moisture away from the mortar, which will cause cracking, and you don’t want that!

The repointing work can officially begin. This is achieved by packing the joints with mortar to ensure that there are no air pockets or gaps. You’ll notice that most professionals will work on a few rows of bricks at a time, and will smooth off the mortar with specific tools depending upon the chosen finishing.

When to repoint a wall

If you own a brick-built house, you will eventually need to repoint your walls. Remember not to underestimate the importance of pointing because, as mentioned, your walls are made up of 15% mortar.

Mortar works to protect your home from rain, moisture, and dampness. It also plays a hugely important role in your home’s construction and fixes any irregularities that may be found on the face of the bricks.

Mortar isn’t as hard as a brick, so damage from the elements will appear much more quickly. This is actually done on purpose, to make sure that the mortar takes on most of the burden of weathering rather than the bricks.

If your bricks do become damaged, you’ll have to take them out and replace them. Bricks can become damaged due to faulty pointing. This can happen if modern cement is used instead of lime mortar. Avoid this trouble by making sure that your walls are always correctly pointed!

You’ll have to repoint your walls if you begin to notice a white layer on the surface of the bricks. This is called efflorescence, which is caused by dampness.

Different types of pointing mortar

Spatula with mortar

There are five different types of pointing mortar. For each, the average cost is between £0.40 to £2.32 per kg. Here are the differences between each type of material:

Lime mortar – Lime mortar is made from water, hydraulic or non-hydraulic lime, and an aggregate like sand. Lime mortar is typically used on older homes. Portland cement (a type of cement used in repointing) can damage homes that were built before the 19th century.

Type N – This type of mortar is very common. It’s made from sand, cement, and lime. Type N mortar is durable and robust and has a strength of up to 750 pounds per square inch (psi). It’s ideal for homes that are exposed to harsh weather conditions.

Type O – Type O mortar is less durable than Type N. It’s usually used on a non-load-bearing interior wall or for repointing. This type of mortar has a strength of 350 psi.

Type S – Type S mortar is extremely strong, with a strength between 1,800-3,000 psi. This mortar mix is usually used on below ground structures, thanks to its strength and durability.

Type M – Type M mortar mix typically won’t be used in a repointing job. It also contains the most Portland Cement, which means that it shouldn’t be used in older homes. This type of mortar mix is often used in driveways or foundations.

Different repointing options

Flush – Flush pointing is when the mortar is pressed down into the joints so that it becomes flush with the edge of the brick. The excess edges are then trimmed away. This method of repointing isn’t the most attractive choice aesthetically, but it’s very durable and will last a long time.

Recessed – Recessed pointing is a much more visually appealing choice than flush. Here, the mortar is pressed back 5mm (or more) away from the edges of the bricks vertically. Be aware that while recessed pointing may look better than flush, it isn’t as durable.

Beaded – If you’re looking for another aesthetically pleasing repointing option, you may want to consider beaded pointing. This type of pointing is finished with a concave edge. While beaded pointing may be nice to look at, it can be damaged much faster than other types.

Struck – Struck pointing is very much like flushed pointing. The difference here is that the mortar is pressed into the upper edge by 10mm to drain water more efficiently.

Tuck – Tuck pointing means that the mortar is pushed into the joint first and then fixed afterwards to become flush with the face of the brick. A groove is then cut while the mortar is still green, ensuring that there is a width of 5mm and a depth of 3mm.

The groove is then filled with a white cement putty and pushed forward 3mm past the face of the brick. This type of repointing option works to create the illusion that there are finer joints.

Advantages of repointing

Grey brick wall

There are several advantages and benefits you’ll get thanks to repointing! One of the first advantages is that your home will be more visually attractive! This type of home improvement work will make your home more enjoyable to live in, and will also increase the value of your property for years to come.

If you live in a historical home, repointing will also help to conserve your property. It will also help cut down on excess maintenance.

Last but not least, your home will be much more durable with the help of repointing one wall – or several! This type of project will help protect your home from damage caused by rain, sleet, and rain.

Ultimately, if you want to avoid unnecessary damage to your home, repointing is a great place to start!